Serums: Why are they important?

Serums are an ideal way to get potent skin specific ingredients into the skin fast!
They can range from liquids to lightweight creams and even oil textures.  Serums reach deeper as well as quicker into the epidermis making them a perfect pre-moisturizer step.  The reason why serums are usually more expensive and in much smaller packaging than a jar or tube of moisturizer is because the efficacy is so much higher and concentrated ingredients are harder to stabilize.  So it's safe to say that serums are usually one of the most important and higher priced items in your routine.  Applying a serum before a moisturizer is like flossing before brushing the teeth.  A thin layer (remember serums are highly concentrated) all over the face, neck and chest is ideal and we need to remember those areas when treating our skin with any product, including cleansers, exfoliants, etc.   Occasionally people won't use moisturizers over a serum depending on how much oil is in the skin and/or during warm, humid weather but generally speaking every skin can do well with some form of a serum underneath a daily spf moisturizer and under a nightly moisturizer.

Some examples of my favorite serums:

Image Skincare:
Vitamin C hydrating serum (mature, sensitive skin, thinner skin, rosacea)
A C E liquid serum (thicker skin, aging, sensitive)
Iluma Bleaching serum (hyper pigmentation)
Pure Hyaluronic serum  (dehydrated, pregnant
Glycolic serum (anti-aging, firming)
Clear Cell Restoring serum (acne, dehydrated)

Caudalie Skincare:
Resveratrol Lift serum (lifting, mature, sensitive, pregnant)
Premier Cru 1/2 oil 1/2 serum Elixir (anti-aging, nourishing, any skin)
Vinoperfect Brightening serum (hyper pigmentation, any skin)
SOS serum (sensitive skin)
Overnight Recovery Oil (dry, sensitive, aging, pregnant)
C15 Detox Oil (any skin)

Toners: Why are they important?

Toners are a terrific way to instantly hydrate and freshen up the skin.  They also balance the pH of the skin as well as aid in the delivery of products into the skin.  Look for alcohol-free spritz toners, tonics or brumisateur (atomizer) sprays.  Spray toners are so much easier to use and you'll get a full coverage using less product.  Saturating a cotton pad can use up product too fast and it's unnecessary unless you're using a toner with acne fighting ingredients.  A few drops on a cotton pad swept over blemishes is safe and appropriate for that because you don't want those acne fighting ingredients in the eye area.
Ingredients found in spray toners vary from botanicals to fruit extracts, collagen and hyaluronic acid ( hydrating acid).   Toners perk up the skin and mind.   They are ideal for spritzing over makeup throughout the day, after cleansing and after a workout.  Toners give a dewy glow and thats the best part.  Bring on the dew!!  A great way to beat the dull and dry winter days ahead!  Make your own toner with green tea and a travel size spray bottle.  Boil water and steep a pure green tea bag, let cool and carefully pour into a sanitary travel spray bottle.  Pop into your purse, gym bag and spritz as often as you need to!  Great for flying too, have fun.

Cleansing: Why is it important?

Cleansing the skin in the morning and at night is the norm but it's not the rule.  Cleansing in the evening  before bed is most important because you want to remove the surface dirt, impurities, perspiration and make-up from the day.  You'll also have a clean slate to then apply your serum/moisturizer/eye cream of choice.  Using a cleanser that has alpha or beta hydroxy acid or glycolic acid are going to deepen the cleanse so your nighttime products will absorb deeper and thus work better for you while you're sleeping.  To ensure that it's not too harsh try using those ingredients every other night or every third night.  Fill in with a foaming, milky or oil wash on the other nights.  If you're a new mom,  had a rough night out or just feeling lazy bones, at least grab a baby wipe (clean ;) ) or a soft wash cloth (baby wash cloths rock!) and wipe your face, neck and chest with tepid water. Keep a moisturizer next to your bed so you can slather it on before turning out the light. Zzzzzzzzzzzzz
Good morning!  To give your skin a deep cleansing in the morning may be unnecessary because you've just cleansed the night before.  If you feel like you have to wash your face in the morning, choose a gentle cleanser.  One that is a micellar water, milky or an oil version would be great choices.  Or you can just gently wipe off your face, neck and chest with your soft cloth rinsed with tepid water or apply a spritz with your alcohol free toner and go about the rest of your moisturizing routine.  It's not absolutely necessary to do a thorough cleanse in the morning.
Whenever you're cleansing always remember NOT to use too hot or too cold of water.  The myth is the hotter the water, the pores will open up and colder the water the pores will shrink.  Not so.  In fact, the extreme temperatures will potentially break the capillaries and upset your face.  As we age, the amount of sebum (oil) that our skin produces lessens and we need that oil to preserve our elastin in our skin.  So remember that we do need to kick it up a notch with our P.M. cleansers a couple times a week but then we need to also help allow our skin to build up those natural oils as well.  Happy cleansing!

As always, feel free to email me with your confidential questions:  shelley@shelleyskin.com

Why facials are important:

Ahhhh, to relax and let go of the world for an hour seems dreamy.

Well, facials could be helping you with a whole plethora of health benefits at the same time you're getting your pores clean.

We live in a society that is much less "touchy/feely" and we're even less comfortable around strangers because of the things we see, read and hear about.  That being said, when you decide to put your trust in a facialist, it's got to feel relaxing, trusting, private and genuinely therapeutic.  Once those components are present, it's time to give yourself a time out and just breathe.  Your "happy chemicals" including Dopamine, Serotonin, Endorphins and Oxytocin release anxiety, depression and self doubt and then allow to fill your bucket with optimism, strength and compassion for yourself and others.

Getting a thorough facial is defined differently by each guest and what their expectations are at the time of their appointment.  It may be different each visit, understandably so.  We all have a "type" of skin but the conditions of our skin change all the time.  It's important to get some sort of exfoliation even for the super sensitive conditions as that's what helps with circulation, and cell renewal.  It's imperative that you get a customized facial suited just for you and your current skin condition.

As we age, our cells do not turnover as quickly as they used to.  For example, when you cut yourself as a child, the skin rebuilds at a MUCH higher rate than when we cut ourselves at mid life.  The cells usually rebuild every 28 days and then it takes 56 days to rebuild then 84 days and so on.....Much slower renewal.  It's extremely important to appropriately exfoliate to remind the cells to turnover.  Exfoliating also prepares the skin and "dis-encrusts" the skin for easier comedone (blackhead) and/or pustule removal.

Steam helps to just slightly soften the skin and penetrates products.  You don't have to use steam but it does serve a purpose and many people enjoy the misting sensation.

Facial massage is important to exercise the facial muscles and also to release pressure or tension on the facial muscles.  It's this magical feeling that happens once the facial bones are being relaxed.  The sacrum starts to melt into the bed and the shoulders leave the hunched position and there's a feeling of pure weightlessness.

Facials are so much more than what many may think.  It's not so much about the vanity but more about getting a thorough "grooming" treatment.  Most of all, giving yourself permission to turn off for a much needed siesta...........It's the best preventative medicine you can give to yourself.

There's so much that goes into a facial treatment and I want to remind you of a few things before you book an appointment.  This is your treatment so don't be afraid to speak up if you have any aversions or  questions.  There's no such thing as a crazy question.  Also, stay hydrated before and after a facial treatment. A lot of lymph draining occurs and it's easy to get dehydrated.  Communication is key.

Please email or call with any questions:  shelley@shelleyskin.com    (831)324-4611



Vellus Hair Removal (Dermaplaning)

There's a buzz going on about why "shaving" or Dermaplaning is so great for the skin.  Well, truth be told with summer in full bloom, peach fuzz or vellus hair is more noticeable in the bright light and this is a gentle, quick and effective way to get rid of that unwanted fur and exfoliate at the same time.  The areas of most concern are the sides of face and upper lip.  Men are at a huge advantage because when they shave they're actually exfoliating too which helps with cell rejuvenation which helps with firming the skin-yeah!
Using a sterile blade the skin is feathered very lightly and is scraping off the dead epidermal (top) layer and removing the hair as well.  It's perfect for those using retinols or other topicals/orals that can sensitize the skin.  Waxing is not appropriate for retinol users and sensitive skin. This procedure allows the skin to be super smooth which helps products reach deeper into the skin and creams/makeup sit better on top of the skin.  The hair grows back at the same rate and the same texture as before the treatment.  The myth of hair growing back thicker and darker is simply that, a myth.
It's an ideal treatment for pregnant/lactating moms too as there are no chemicals involved.  I've had multiple treatments and I really love the two-for-one result with a smoother texture skin and an epidermal exfoliation as well.  For those wanting to kick it up a notch, you can add a professional peel after the dermaplane.  

In between appointments, you can get the job done safely at home with a Tinkle Brow Shaper.  You won't get as close of a shave but it really makes a difference and it's very easy to use.  You can Youtube how to use one but once you get the hang of it, you might get addicted!  It's an economical way to go too.

Micellar Water

The Micellar water craze:

Micelles are tiny round cleansing molecules that have a magnetic type action to sweep away surface dirt, impurities and makeup without needing to rinse with water.  Miceller water can be used as a quick multi-purpose cleanser if you don't have time to do your normal cleansing routine (new moms), late late nights, when there's no running water (camping) or after a workout.  It doesn't leave a residue and can be used with a cotton pad or a press/release action with your hands.
I wouldn't recommend that you switch out your normal cleansing routine altogether but this is a way to get the job done and not feel guilty for sleeping with your makeup on.  It'd be a great pre-cleanse because of the fact that it gently and efficiently removes the makeup without leaving any film.
It's a helpful go-to for makeup artists when we need to re-do an area because it feels refreshing, not heavy.
Caudalie has a grape seed infused micellar water that is very reasonable at $28. for 6.7 ounces and it will last approx 3 months if used daily.  For any of you product junkies, this is a fun, hip product that won't break the bank!

Men and Facials

It's true.  Men need facials just as much as women and here are a few reasons why:

~ Relaxation and cranial surrendering
 
~ Exfoliation, especially on the areas where they do not shave

~Any necessary grooming of unwanted hair on the eyebrows, ears, nose

~Gentle extractions of comedones as men are usually more sensitive (yes, it's true)

~Massage, especially around the eye area

~Education on simple yet effective ways to maintain healthy, firm and protected skin

~Make an appointment to see a Dermatologist for a full body skin check.  Men are at high risk because they don't like to wear an SPF.

Cheers to all of the kind and courageous men in the world, you matter!

What the Hydroquinone?

Hydroquinone lightens skin pigmentation (melasma) by inhibiting the production of melanin.  Melanin is what gives our skin color.  In lower percentages (less than 4%) hydroquinone is safe to break up the melanocytes and spread them around thus giving a less "patchy" appearance.  Depending on how deep the pigment is or how long it's been on the skin, typically the harder it is to break up those melanocytes.  The controversy is really over the higher percentages(10% and above)having the ability to stop melanin production all together thus making the skin more vulnerable to sun burn and skin damage.  Melanin protects our skin from burning so we do need it in our skin.  Genetics determines how much melanin we have in our skin.
After being a low percentage hydroquinone user (2%) for the last 15 years, I've come to enjoy the lightening effect it has on my skin and I recommend it for anyone with serious melasma patches.  Some common names for melasma are: hyper-pigmentation, pregnancy mask and age spots.  I don't recommend using it day and night or even every single day.  I recommend using it every 3rd night and spreading it over the entire patch and beyond the borders by a couple millimeters.  If you spot treat with a hydroquinone product, your patch can become hypo-pigmented and cause a "halo" looking ring in the middle of the patch.  Not so desirable.  Just remember not to spot treat with your product and your skin will be fine.  Always use a full spectrum sun protection moisturizer daily, especially when using a hydroquinone product.  Interestingly,  new research does show that hydroquinone has antioxidant properties which makes sense because it inhibits free radical damage due to environmental factors.  It's important to be routine with application until the 1 ounce bottle is finished.  Email questions to: shelley@shelleyskin.com
Good luck!


Caudalie Beauty Elixir

As a friend of mine says, it's her "anti-depression in a bottle".  This amazing refreshing spray is loaded with grape extracts, orange blossom, organic balm mint and Rosemary.  Just one spray and you feel alive and it looks dewy and bright.  You really don't need much because it's a potent blend and is truly stimulating on contact.  I love to use after cleansing my face in the morning as well as throughout the day over makeup.  If you need a pick me up in the middle of the day, just spritz and smile!  Truly one of Caudalie's coveted products!!


C O Bigelow Mentha Lip Shine Cinnamint

Yes, I'm a sucker for all products for the lips!  This is a 100% natural mint lip shine that claims to freshen your breath too....?  Sounds like a bonus to me.  There's a .1% cinnamon oil that feels like it's plumping with out the Lip Venom burn, remember that product?
I use this as a lip color and treatment during the day.  It's got an easy applicator tip and gives a slight burst of color.  Light plum.  I put it just over the lip line to help stimulate the upper lip and prevent the vertical lines.
An inexpensive, dewy treat and it feels like it's doing something-check it out.

Here's to an amazing New Year!!!!!

Skin Ceuticals C E Ferulic Serum

A super antioxidant combination!  This serum is a splurge but it's really powerful.  It works to help brighten  environmental aging and boosts collagen production.  It also has a UV protectant and should be used during the day.
I use this daily under my moisturizer with SPF.  I put about 4-5 drops in hand and push it in to my skin, including face, neck and chest.  It goes on with a slight tingle, which is normal and it absorbs instantly.  I follow with my SPF moisturizer right after and it does not get clumpy or tacky.
This is so easy to use and a huge favorite for many women over the age of 25.  Because I use a Retin-a some evenings, this serum helps to balance out my dehydration.  Also a safe choice for new moms with the pregnancy mask or pigmentation areas.
There's a reason why Allure Magazine made this one of their favorite picks.  It's super concentrated which makes it more effective and friendly with most skin conditions/types.  I don't recommend on active acne.
I'm glad I splurged with this one.
WYJINW?

Peter Thomas Roth Firm X Serum

The latest peptide serum that aides in line prevention.  Not another one of those!
The break through ingredient is called Calmosensine and it has a lipo-dipeptide that inhibits muscle contraction and increases the skin's tolerance to internal and external aggressions.  It's also said that Calmosensine soothes the skin by lessening sensitivity to chemical irritants.  Apparently aides in sexual stamina too-whewhoo!
All of that said, this serum feels great and fills in my fine lines.  It has almost a primer effect to it which gives an even texture to the skin.
I've been using it about 3 times a week in the morning under my moisturizer w/ SPF.  I use it in place of my vitamin c serum.  I like that it's fragrance free and it spreads easy.
Peter Thomas Roth is always coming out with new and exciting products and this is a splurge that's worth it.  Using it just around the eyes, naso-labial folds and neck helps to keep the serum around longer.  Don't waste it.  :)
WYJINW?

Peter Thomas Roth Mega Rich Anti-Aging Cellular Cream

This is one of my all time favorite p.m. moisturizers.  It's a blend of malic acid, from apples and lactic acid, from milk.  These alpha hydroxy acids have the same duties as a stronger Retin-A but without the intensity.  Those duties are to firm the skin by gently increasing the cell turnover rate and also they keep the pores cleaner longer by having the anti-bacterial properties.  (Remember back when Retin-A was first formulated for the use of clearing up acne?) This moisturizer is also loaded with avocado oil, green and white tea and grape seed extract to name a few. These are all incredible anti-oxidants that help to nourish the skin and keep it plump and lubricated.
The texture of this is beyond any other moisturizer I've felt thus far.  You can only imagine how many I've tried-product junky that I am!  It is absorbent and silky but not thick and heavy.  It's got just a hint of natural citrus and nothing more.  I can feel my skin drinking it up.  Very pleasant in every way.
I will use this on the nights that I do not use my Retin-A blend prescription.  It's important to take a break from your Retin-A every so often.  That all depends on the % you're using and how often per week you use it.  I apply all over my face, neck and feather down on to the decollete. Oui, so wonderful.
WYJINW?

Peter Thomas Roth Un-Wrinkle Lip Balm SPF 15/Pink Shimmer

I enjoy this lip product because I can treat my lips and get a little color at the same time.  Vitamins A, C and E are helpful for stimulating and nourishing.  The peptides help to give volume and help to fill in the fine lines.  Around $15. for a .48 oz tube.  A natural, pretty look without the heavy stickiness some glosses can give.
Great to throw in your bag and go!
Won't you join in next week?

Garnier Skin Renew Anti-Dark-Circle-Roller

I like the ease of this product.  There's a sheer tint combined with green tea and rosehip extracts making this both an under eye de-puffer and concealer in one.
I apply it just before my SPF moisturizer in the morning.  To apply, roll it back and forth once then blend in with the ring finger.  I tap any leftover product into the inner corners of my eyes as well.
It's got a very thin, almost watery consistency so it doesn't cake up or look overdone.
I really love that it's fragrance free and cool to the touch with the metal roller tip.  It helps to wake up the eyes! The wand itself is easy to hold and easy to pack and go too.
A little treat from Garnier-thanks!
WYJINW?

June Jacobs Perfect Peeling Pumpkin Enzyme

A spicy, extremely thorough enzyme exfoliant for most skin conditions.  (not for acne or rosacea skin)
This has a deep penetrating smooth texture, making it a great alternative to an abrasive, physical scrub.
The enzymes go deeper into the epidermis,  stimulating the cells.  It's like they're getting a workout and reminding the cells to turn over.  Also these enzymes eat up all of the dead protein cells and "glue" that bind them together.  Skin looks fresh, firm and ready for deeper absorption of serums and moisturizers.
I use this product once a week in the bath or shower.  I use about a dime size and moisturize it all over my face and neck.  I leave it on and it does it's work without me scrubbing or manipulating it into my skin.   After my bath or shower, about 7 minutes, I rinse it off with tepid water.
You can feel these enzymes working.  It doesn't make me red but it is comfortably stimulating.
It's loaded with anti oxidants and is paraben/preservative free!
Won't ya join in next week?

CG smoky shadow blast in Silver Sky

This creamy eyeshadow is an easy, affordable choice.  Great for travel and many duos to choose from.  So there's 2 colors in one stick-like tube. The step 1 color goes all over the eye lid blending up into the brow to highlight.  The step 2 goes into the crease of the lid and along the bottom of the lid, closest to the lash line.  You can make the line as fine or as wide as you like.  You can also use on the lower eye line.
This product is easy to remove with a cotton swab so if you mess it up, just wipe and do again.
After I apply this shadow, I use my ring finger to blend it as needed.  Meaning, if I put too much in the crease, I'll blend it over the crease until it lightens up and/or evens out.
It's easy to remove and if anything goes on lighter than darker.
These are dummy proof and yet still look like you know what you're doing when it comes to shadow colors so give this a try and play!
WYJINW?

Silk Road Caravan by Stephen Nilsen/Fragrance Pencil

This handy .14 oz parfum crayon is a must especially for people on the go.  This is one of 6 scents that are all inspired by teas from across the globe.  These are exclusive to Anthropologie stores and are created by the fragrance house,  Givaudan in Switzerland.
I was drawn to this scent because of it's apricot/vanilla notes along side peony and white tea.  (I also adore the Vanille/Abricot Comptoir Sud Pacific Parfum Spray from France)  This pencil glides over the pressure points and is ever so subtle in it's flavors.  Just a few short glides is all you need.
There's a soft, silk-like string that you pull to get more more product at the tip.  Truly glamorous and makes a terrific gift at only $10.00!  It doesn't take up any space and really smells elegant not cheap.  I'm super impressed-can you tell?  Enjoy.
Won't you join in next week?

Revercel Perfect Glycolic Cleanser

I realize that I just blogged last week about a cleanser but I need to talk about this one too!  I use this cleanser about 3 times a week at night.  It's a perfect cleanser to use on the nights that you're using your Retin-A because it allows the Retin-A to penetrate deeper.
I use about a dime size and work it into my face, neck and chest.  I use a soft baby washcloth to remove gently, rinsing the cloth with tepid water.
My skin feels tingly but it means it's getting deeper into the epidermis to loosen up the dead protein cells(dead skin) and bacteria.  It promotes cell turnover so the skin takes on a fresh, firm texture.  I don't recommend using it every day.
Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane and has an anti-bacterial effect on the skin.  For myself and many clients it's a perfect go-to for managing both breakouts and aging skin.
This cleanser is non-foaming and fragrance-free.  For sensitive/rosacea skin use once or twice a week only.  If you're new to glycolics, understand that this ingredient helps to draw out toxins in the skin.  Mild breakouts can happen when first introducing into the skin.  NO PICKING ALLOWED.  :)
WYJINW?

Eminence Organics Coconut Milk Cleanser

This ultra-rich milky cleanser is amazing for maturing skin.  With healing, calming and anti-bacterial qualities it's a must for the aging and break-out prone skin.
I use a half pump for my entire face, neck and chest.  I moisturize it into those areas then grab a damp, tepid baby washcloth.  I swipe over all of the areas and follow with the rest of my routine.  You don't even need to use water to remove this.
The smell is subtle and sensational.
If you're super dry or sun exposed this is great to use.  It leaves the skin feeling nourished and loved.  I like to describe this cleanser as a kicked up version of a creamy Cetaphil or Cera Ve cleanser!  It doesn't strip away the natural lipids but deeper cleans and keeps the bacteria at bay.
Just try not to drink it because it smells like a Pina Colada!  :)
Won't ya join in next week?